WaterWise (or Xeriscape ) landscapes conserve water and protect the environment. Since the early eighties, Xeriscape proponents have emphasized seven logical landscape principles:

1. Planning and Design,
2. Practical Turf Areas,
3. Efficient Irrigation,
4. Soil Analysis,
5. Appropriate Plant Selection,
6. Use of Mulches, and
7. Appropriate Maintenance.

Water suppliers, water agencies, members of the green industry, and landscape professionals are now joining together to build on the success of Xeriscape. One organization that illustrates this new philosophy is the WaterWise Council of Texas. WaterWise concepts emphasize new principles to enhance the basic seven:

Site Evaluation: Protection of valuable indigenous plants and existing topsoil during construction.

Soil Depth: A minimum of 6 inches of quality soil is required beneath turf areas to reduce water consumption and provide good growing conditions. A good soil mix consists of 70 percent high quality loam, 20 percent "Dillo Dirt and 10 percent course grit sand.

Contour Evaluation: Recognize existing water runoff patterns and adapt the construction to it and/or re-contour the site to maximize rainfall infiltration while reducing runoff.

Water Quality: Proper design, contours, rainwater harvesting and plant selection can combine to greatly reduce downstream contamination from fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides.

Energy Savings: Proper landscaping can reduce overall utility bills by providing shade or sun depending on the seasonal requirements.

Rainwater Harvesting: Utilizing barrels and cisterns to hold rainwater for later use during dry periods.

Habitat for Nature: Realizing that the landscape is home to thousands of birds, insects, and animals. We can encourage the desirable species and reduce the undesirables at the same time, by providing food, shelter, and water in our landscape. The growing interest in water gardening (ponds) leads WaterWise proponent to include small water features as a part of the overall natural habitat.

Thirty-eight percent of the water consumed in Austin is used for outside watering. From a water conserving perspective, water wise landscapes are very valuable. Additionally, water wise landscapes can be designed to aid in energy conservation and reduce the need for chemicals and fertilizers.

Efficient irrigation is perhaps one of the easiest principles to achieve, but has much to do with the water user's habits and system design.

Planning and Design

This is the first and most important step in water wise landscaping. The water wise landscape takes into account the regional and microclimatic conditions of the site, existing vegetation and topographical conditions, the intended use and desires of the owner and the zoning of plant materials according to their water needs.

Proper site planning

Plan building and site as one unit. Beginning a building specifically for its site topography reduces drainage problems and the need for grading.

Preserve and protect as much existing vegetation as possible. (You may have existing vegetation appraised and require sub contractors to reimburse you for any damage done during construction.)

Water. Fig. 1

Existing trees should be protected by fencing at the dripline.

Soil

• Preserve and protect topsoil on construction site.

Topsoil is a valuable resource that can only be replaced with expensive haling from other sites or with years of the natural process of soil formation. Collect and stockpile the topsoil for future use on the site.

• Have soil analyzed to help determine suitable plants and the need for any soil amendments.

A soil test is an important first step in determining whether fertilizer is needed, and if so, what type. The addition of fertilizers containing potassium, for example, may be unnecessary or even harmful, since soils in the Austin area tend to be potassium-rich. To reduce the need for fertilizer on established turf, use the "Don't Bag It" program: leave clippings in place to decomcompose after mowing. This recycles important nutrients back into the soil.

• Add organic matter to the soil to enhance plant health.

This improves soil texture and moisture retention. Soil rich in organic matter provides nutrients and micro-organisms beneficial to plants. For planting beds, spread 2 inches of organic matter and mix it in 6 inches deep.

When planting shrubs or trees, mix 1/3 organic matter into the soil. Note that some native plants may not require this, as they are well adapted to poor soils. Check with your supplier.

Compost and composted sludge products such as "Dillo Dirt are excellent sources of nutrients for ornamental landscapes. Such products release nutrients slowly to the plants, making frequent fertilizing unnecessary and minimizing the risk of fertilizer washing out of sites to become non-point source pollution. "Dillo Dirt is a recycled material produced by the City of Austin at the Hornsby Bend Sludge Treatment Plant.

• Add other amendments as necessary.

Soils in the Austin area with large amounts of clay and stones are difficult to work with. The addition of gypsum and sand can improve the workability and drainage capacity of soil.

If little soil is available and bedrock is in evidence on the site, planting holes are sometimes dug in solid rock. If this occurs, be sure all planting holes drain thoroughly before planting. Standing water on plant roots can be lethal.

• Choose topsoil wisely.

If topsoil is imported from off-site, be sure it is of high quality. There are many grades of topsoil, and the end use will determine what type of topsoil to use. For example, the best material for grading and filling may not be good for planting.

The natural clay type soils in our area are suitable for many native plantings. Native plants are naturally adapted to such soils, and may not thrive on soil blends that don't mimic the natural conditions.

Weeds and other pests such as fire ants can easily be imported onto a site via topsoil. Be sure to use reputable suppliers of soils who can verify their soil source.

Appropriate Plant Selection

• Select plants that require a minimal amount of supplemental watering.

Most water wise plants will need no supplemental watering after an establishment period, unless there is an extreme drought. The establishment period after installation may last from 18 to 24 months.

Almost any plant can be used in a water wise landscape if grouped according to its water needs. Annual and exotic plantings can be located in small, easily accessible areas to make maintenance easier. Irrigation can then be zoned according to plant water needs to make efficient irrigation possible.

Many native plants are well adapted to the natural soil and rainfall conditions of our area. They have protection mechanisms that cause them to go dormant during periods of stress. They may appear brown, but will turn green again when temperatures improve and it rains.

• Choose a variety of plant species.

Diversity of plant species occurs in nature, making more stable plant populations. Avoid planting large numbers of only one plant species, which can create a monoculture susceptible to pest or insect problems.

The abundance of water wise plants - trees, shrubs, perennials, groundcovers, vines and grasses - available in the nursery industry make it possible to choose plantings which give color and interest (flowers, fruits, berries, and foliage) year-round.

• Buy from reputable suppliers and nurseries.

Well-established plant suppliers know the exact sources of their plant materials. Information on whether plants are nursery-grown or field-dug should be available.

For field-collected specimens, check that permission of the landowner was obtained and that the plants are not rare or endangered.

Field-dug specimens should be "heeled in," allowing plants to acclimate for a period of time before replanting.

• Use Texas-grown plants if possible.

This cuts down transportation costs and increases the viability of plant materials. The Texas Department of Agriculture has a consumer awareness program which labels plants "Texas Grown" with a special tag. Look for these tags and ask for Texas Grown plants when ordering.

Lists of plants suitable to our climatic region are widely available. See Resource section for further information.

Practical Turf Areas

Practical turf areas are those whose size is suited to the intended use. Huge lawns of exotic grasses will require more maintenance and care than any other type of landscape plant. Lawns may be needed as children's play areas, for pets, sports, or simply for the aesthetic appeal of turf. The maintenance needs of turf can be minimized by the shape of the area, the irrigation equipment used, and the turf type selected.

• Design turf areas in rounded, compact shapes to water and mow more efficiently.

Curving borders of plant beds around turf areas and the use of mowing strips can make mowing and edging easier. Avoid long narrow areas of turf, which are difficult to water efficiently.

Locate turf areas close to the house, and lower-maintenance areas near the edges or rear of the lot.

• Design turf areas so they can be watered separately from other landscape plants.

If using an automatic irrigation system, the grass areas can be zoned to be watered according to the needs of the grass type. For non-automatic systems, use efficient sprinklers for grass areas and soaker hoses for beds. Watering times will vary by plant type.

• Choose turf appropriate for the location.

The following turf types are listed from the most to the least drought tolerant: Note the chart of water requirements for each type of turf at the end of this section.

Buffalo grass is a native prairie grass that reaches a maximum height of 6 inches and can be left unmown. Buffalo grass generally requires full sun, but some of the newer varieties such as Prairie and 609 Buffalograss have improved shade tolerance (as little as 4 hours of sun per day). These varieties are available as sod, and exhibit a darker green color.

Bermuda grass is the most commonly used drought-tolerant grass in Texas. It is available as seed or sod and requires full sun. Tifway and Texturf 10 varieties are more drought-tolerant.

Zoysia grass is a slow-growing grass for full sun to partial shade. It is available as sod. Belair or Myer Z-52 are good varieties for residential use. Zoysia may have special mowing needs, such as a reel-type mower.

St. Augustine grass is best for use only in shady spots. It has poor drought and freeze tolerance and is prone to chinch bugs. It is available only as sod, and if grown in full sun has the highest water needs of the grasses listed here.

• Avoid planting grass on slopes .

Sloping areas are difficult to mow (making Buffalograss the most appropriate choice) and difficult to water without runoff. Terracing slopes can help slow down water. Plant groundcover, shrubs, and perennials to minimize the difficult maintenance problems of slopes. Consider leaving slopes in their natural state.

• Minimize grass areas by using alternative landscaping .

There are many alternatives to grass plantings that are aesthetically pleasing and low-maintenance.

Planting beds are a logical alternative to grass to maintain the cool green appearance of plants.

Wildflowers can be incorporated into native groundcovers and grasses.

Mulch beds of bark, stone or gravel can be used as pathways, or around driveways and utility areas.

Children's play areas can be covered with sand or bark mulch to create inexpensive "safety" zones. Paving products made of recycled tires are available to create a ground surface that minimizes injuries.

Decks and patios add value to homes and increase the square footage of living space. Use pervious paving materials if possible. Decks can be built around existing trees, over slopes, and allow for rain infiltration (See Outdoor Decking Materials section in this Sourcebook ).

Although commercially made composters are available, compost bins are easy to build. Remember to allow for air circulation and make the bin wide enough so that the compost can be turned and lifted. You can use chicken wire, woven wire, or inexpensive fencing to build a bin. Try using wood stakes, wire, or chain snaps to support and fasten the bin. Discarded wood pallets can be put together with wire to make an inexpensive rectangular bin. A portable bin can be built of wood slats and wire mesh. Cinder blocks or brick can be used if gaps are left to allow air circulation (See the Compost Systems section of this Sourcebook for more information).

• Mow correctly.

Mow the grass when it is about 1/3 higher than the desired height. Clippings can be left where they fall, recycling nutrients into the soil. If they are collected, compost them with raked leaves and organic kitchen waste.

Never mow lawns too short. Proper mowing heights can help lawns use less water and grass that is cut too short is stressed and dries out quickly.

Recommended Mowing Heights:

Bermuda 1* to 2 * inches

St. Augustine 2 to 3 inches

Buffalo Grass 3 to 4 inches

Zoysia 2 inches

Table 1: Green Building Grass Choices For Central Texas

Irrigation

• Use an efficient irrigation system designed by a licensed irrigator.

The type of watering equipment best suited to the job depends on the landscape, design, layout and budget. The irrigation design should be integrated with the design of the landscape. A simple garden hose and sprinkler with a few soaker hoses may be the best way to water some landscapes. Drip or underground systems may be more appropriate for other landscapes or clients. (See also Greywater and Harvested Rainwater sections of the Sourcebook.)

It is important to note that any newly installed landscape will require more water during an establishment period of one to two years. After this time, a water wise landscape may require no irrigation unless there is a drought. Unless there are large expanses of non-native turf and other thirsty plants, sprinklers in conjunction with drip irrigation may be sufficient. However, many homeowners prefer the convenience of an automatic irrigation system.

A water efficient automatic irrigation system includes:

• A timer that allows for scheduling every 5-7 days (14 or 15-day programming) and independent zone programming capability.
• Features such as multi-cycling (or multiple start times) that help in watering areas which may need several short irrigation cycles to avoid runoff.
• An inexpensive rain shut-off device, which will prevent unnecessary irrigation during rain.
• A soil moisture sensor. Unlike the rain shut-off device, the soil moisture sensor actually measures soil moisture, and overrides programmed irrigation when the soil moisture level is adequate.
• Non-mist type low trajectory nozzles, pressure-compensating devices or micro-spray heads should be used for spray systems in turf areas.
• A zoned approach where plants of similar water requirements are grouped together in the same zone capable of independent station programming. For example, turf areas are separate from shrub areas, and sunny areas are separate from shady ones.

• Use low-flow irrigation equipment.

Evaporation losses can be minimized by drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or bubblers.

Drip irrigation systems are ideal for watering plants in beds and gardens. Drip lines require no expensive underground trenching, and are easy to utilize in a retrofit of an existing landscape.

Drip irrigation uses a flexible hose system that can be easily modified to apply water at the ground surface to individual plants. Emitters are punched into the supply line where they are needed. A variety of types and flow rates for emitters are available.

If water pressure at the source exceeds 30 psi, a pressure regulator may be necessary. Filters to remove sediment should be installed at the water source. Flush caps should be installed at the ends of the drip supply lines so that the entire system can occasionally be flushed of contaminants.

Drip lines should be secured to the soil surface and covered with organic mulch to improve appearance and protect them from sunlight.

• Maintain the system.

Irrigation systems need regular maintenance to ensure proper working order and to adjust irrigation scheduling.

A complete system audit should be conducted annually, and irrigation schedules adjusted quarterly. The Texas Agricultural Extension Service offers a training program for Irrigation Auditors.

Irrigation lines should be flushed and all stations, heads, nozzles, and/or emitters checked for proper functioning.

• Water only when plants need it and water deeply.

As a general rule, during the growing season most grass needs about one inch of water per week. This will vary depending on soil type and depth, sun, plant conditions, and rainfall occurrence. Irrigation equipment should be tested to determine how long it takes to apply one inch of water.

Irrigate in the coolest part of the day (early mornings and evenings) to avoid evaporation loss and wind drift. Nighttime watering can encourage disease.

Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Homeowner can learn to recognize the signals of a thirsty landscape. Shrubs will begin to droop and grass will lie flat and leave footprints when walked on.

Watering can taper off gradually as fall arrives and gradually increase in spring. Plants do not need as much water in winter, but will still benefit from monthly irrigation if there is no rainfall.

Mulches

Use a deep layer of mulch in planting beds to help retain moisture, slow weed growth, and prevent erosion.

Examples of organic mulch material include:

• shredded barkwood chips
• pine needles
• straw
• pecan hulls
• cotton seed hull
• shredded cedar
• composted leaves

The depth of mulch needed will depend on the type used. As a general rule, the coarser the material, the deeper it should be applied. A 3 to 4 inch layer of bark mulch should be sufficient. Mulch needs to be reapplied as it decomposes.

The use of mulches on sloped areas along with terracing and plantings can help prevent runoff and erosion problems.

• Use inorganic mulches such as pea gravel, crushed granite or pebbles in unplanted areas.

Such areas can become inexpensive pathways, utility areas, or decorative border strips. Do not use stone mulches in areas immediately adjacent to buildings, as they can generate heat and cause glare.

Medium colored stone, such as beige or light gray, is preferable to white, which causes glare, or black, which absorbs heat.

• Use mulches from locally- or regionally-derived materials to decrease transportation costs and utilize local resources.

Organic mulches can be the byproduct of local Christmas tree recycling, tree trimming, land clearing, or sawmills. Stone mulches can be produced from regional quarries. Check with the supplier to determine the source of organic and inorganic mulches.

Appropriate Maintenance

Water wise landscapes require less maintenance because of reduced demands for insect control, water and fertilizer. However, there is no such thing as a maintenance-free constructed landscape. In general, a properly maintained yard is hardier and better able to withstand drought, freezing and pest problems. Obviously, landscape maintenance is up to the owner, but there are things a builder can do to make maintenance easier.

See the Green Building Professionals Directory under "Landscaping."

Mulches and Dillo Dirt are readily available in Austin—see the list of local nurseries and garden supply stores below.

Irrigation - see "Irrigation Systems and Equipment" in Yellow Pages

Barton Springs Nursery
3601 Bee Caves Road
512 328-6655

Big Red Sun
1102 E. Cesar Chavez St.
(512) 480-0688
www.bigredsun.com

Breed & Co.
718 W. 29th St. (Central)
(512) 474-6679
3663 Bee Caves Rd. (West)
(512) 328-3960
www.breedandco.com

Brushy Creek
16318 Great Oaks Dr. (Round Rock)
(512) 255-7871

Callahan's General Store
501 Bastrop Hwy
(512) 385-3452
www.callahansgeneralstore.com

Countryside Nursery and Landscaping
13292 Pond Springs Road
(512) 249-0100
www.countryside-nursery.com

Ecowise
110 W. Elizabeth
(512) 326-4474
www.ecowise.com

The Emerald Garden
5700 Hwy 290 W
(512) 288-5900
www.pondsandgarden.com

Floribunda Plant and Landworks
2041 S. Lamar
(512) 441-6145
www.floribundaworks.com

Gardens
1818 W. 35th
(512) 451-5490
www.gardens-austin.com

Garden-Ville
10624 N. RR 620
(512) 219-5311
www.garden-ville.com

Great Outdoors
2730 S. Congress Ave.
(512) 448-2992
www.gonursery.com

Hill Country Landscape Garden
13561 Pond Springs Road
(512) 258-0093

It's About Thyme
11726 Manchaca Rd.
(512) 280-1192
www.itsaboutthyme.com

John Deere Landscapes
1938 Waukesha (Pflugerville)
(512) 989-7510
www.johndeerelandscapes.com

Landmark Nursery
1510 Royston Lane (Round Rock)
(512) 251-9238
www.landmarknurseries.com  

Natural Gardener
8648 Old Bee Caves Road
(512) 288-6113
www.naturalgardeneraustin.com  

PlantEscapes Gardens
3507 S. 1st
(512) 444-0013
www.plantescapegardens.com

Pots & Plants Garden Center
5902 Bee Caves Rd.
(512) 327-4564
www.plasticpinkflamingos.com

Round Rock Gardens
901 Sam Bass (Round Rock)
(512) 255-3353
roundrockgardens.com

Shoal Creek Nursery
2710 Hancock Dr.
(512) 458-5909
www.shoalcreeknursery.com

Austin Community Gardens
4814 Sunshine Dr.
Austin TX 78756
(512) 458-2009

Austin Water Utility
(512) 972-1954
www.ci.austin.tx.us
Dillo Dirt Program

Bio Integral Resource Center
P. O. Box 7414
Berkeley, CA 94707
(510) 524-2567
www.birc.org
IPM Clearinghouse, "Common Sense Pest Control Quarterly," and "The IPM Practitioner" journals

City of Austin Grow Green
Water Quality Education
(512) 974-2550
www.cityofaustin.org/growgreen
Searchable native and adapted plant guide, education

City of Austin Solid Waste Services
(512) 494-9400
www.ci.austin.tx.us/sws/compost.htm
Composting information, education

City of Austin Water Conservation
625 E. 10th Street
Austin, TX 78701
(512) 974-2199
www.ci.austin.tx.us/watercon/irrigation.htm
List of certified WaterWise Irrigation Professionals, self-audit guide, rebates available

Eco-Wise
110 W. Elizabeth St.
Austin, TX 78704
(512) 326-4474
www.ecowise.com
Books and other info

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
4801 LaCrosse Ave.
Austin, TX 78739
(512) 292-4100
www.wildflower.org

National Coalition Against Misuse of Pesticides
701 E St. SE #200
Washington, DC 20003
(202) 543-5450
www.beyondpesticides.org

National Pesticide Information Center
(800) 858-7378
npic.orst.edu

Native Plant Society of Texas
P. O. Box 891
Georgetown, TX 78627
(512) 238-0695
www.npsot.org

Native Prairies Association of Texas
301 Nature Center Dr.
Austin, TX 78746
(512) 327-8181
www.texasprairie.org

Texas Board of Architectural Examiners
P. O. Box 12337
Austin, TX 78711-2337
(512) 305-9000
www.tbae.state.tx.us
Maintains a list of registered landscape architects

Texas Bamboo Society
www.texasbamboosociety.net
Information on bamboo species and use

Texas Commission on Environmental Quality
Irrigation Certification Program
P.O. Box 13087
Austin, TX 78711-3087
(512) 239-2191
www.tceq.state.tx.us
Searchable list of licensed irrigators

Texas Department of Agriculture
www.agr.state.tx.us
Nursery licensing, organic certification, seed testing

Texas Nursery + Landscape Association
7730 S. IH35
Austin, TX 78745
(512) 280-5182
www.txnla.org
Maintains a list of certified landscape professionals

WaterWise Council of Texas
7730 South IH 35
Austin, TX 78745
(512) 280-5182
www.waterwisetexas.org

Soil, Water, and Forage Testing
Texas A&M University
(979) 845-4816
soiltesting.tamu.edu
Soil, water and plant testing

Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab
Texas A&M University/Texas Cooperative Extension
Bushland, TX 79012
(979) 845-8032
plantpathology.tamu.edu/extension/tpddl/services.asp
Plant disease issues

Texas Plant + Soil Lab
Edinburg, TX 78541
(956) 383-0739
www.txplant-soillab.com
Soil fertility and plant nutrition